I am returning to the first free Palestinian lands PLO leader, Yasser Arafat

Surrounded by green-bereted Palestinian guards, he was rushed through the waiting crowds into a bullet-proof, black Mercedes to make the 20-mile journey north to a rally in Gaza City.

Death threats and threatening graffiti by Israeli settlers at Kfar Dorom forced a route change.

But Mr Arafat was still able to see for the first time the problems - from garbage-strewn streets to Israeli enclaves like Gush Qatif - which he will have to address as ruler of the fledgling Palestinian state.

The PLO leader's visit comes a month after the Israeli-PLO Cairo Agreement created a fragile self-rule for Palestinians in Gaza and Jericho in the West Bank.

The Gaza Strip and the West Bank were among the areas of land seized by the Israelis in the Six Day War of 1967.

In Gaza City Mr Arafat gave a triumphant address from the balcony of the former headquarters of the Israeli military governor to a Parliament Square packed with 200,000 Palestinians.

His differences with other Palestinian leaders appeared to dissolve as Mr Arafat spoke of his interest in Jerusalem.

The itinerary for Mr Arafat's three-day visit includes Jericho but not Jerusalem, according to his adviser Nabil Shaath.

Demonstrations against Mr Arafat's presence are taking place in Jerusalem and elsewhere.

	E-mail this story to a friend