Updated 25 June 2004, 16.14

Jerusalem - with the Muslim shrine, the Dome of the Rock shining in the sun.

Ironically, I don't think I believed it would have such a peaceful atmosphere and be so beautiful. Perhaps that's because people are afraid to go out much at night.

You really feel you're somewhere significant because it has such historical importance. All the buildings are white and dotted around the hills picturesquely.

It's really warm and it's 9 o'clock at night! The air smells different too - kind of sweet and perfumed. Very very different from back home!

We chose to stay here because it's very safe - lots of journalists stay here.

Even though I was anxious about coming somewhere as famous for the fighting here, as it's history, it's not like I expected. In fact first impressions are it's calmer and quieter than most other cities I've visited!

Wednesday 2 June 1630

We've just done our first bit of filming. We interviewed an Israeli settler family in the West Bank whose eldest son was killed by Palestinian gunmen two years ago.

We met the three youngest kids and they spoke amazingly well about their tragedy. Because they've been personally touched by the conflict, they know an awful lot about it and could talk very intelligently.

I was impressed. Even though they live in the West Bank, which is a Palestinian area, and have to be protected by the Israeli army, they have a very strong religious belief that they have a right to stay there.

It was kind of frightening to meet young children with such strong views against another group of people. It is easy to see, though, why they feel as strongly as they do.

Ellie and the crew travelled in this armoured press car.

At least we were in a specially-protected car - I felt so sorry for all the vulnerable people out in the open air.

Nablus was a totally bizarre experience. A really beautiful location but battered by Israeli attacks.

It was a Friday, which is the Moslem holy day and all the shops were shut - the place was deserted.

Everywhere there are crumbling buildings, rubble in the streets and endless posters of martyrs: young men and women who've died, generally in suicide bombs, for the 'cause'.

It's very sad and the fact the streets were so empty just added to the eerie atmosphere.

The Palestinian family we met were lovely and welcoming. It seems such a pity they have to live in such frightening circumstances.

The children asked me if we have war in London. It was very touching. We had to leave Nablus well before dark, as that's when the Israeli army tends to come in to try and arrest terrorists and often shooting breaks out between Israeli soldiers and Palestinians.

As we left, several army trucks drove in, so we were out just in time. I found the whole experience alarming - I'm not sure how I would've coped if any violence had broken out.

Beautiful countryside and an Israeli watchtower in the distance.

Saturday 5 June 1330

This morning we filmed our final case study for this Extra - a Palestinian boy who lives in Bethlehem.

The barrier is being built right through his back garden. He was really frightened and fed up about being contained by this massive concrete wall.

He used to be mates with an Israeli boy - they played footie together - but now they've been separated and can't see each other anymore.

Ellie in the Church of the Nativity

Tourists used to queue for hours to see it, but now it's deserted because no one wants to come on holiday here due to the conflict.

We also filmed right next to the barrier in Bethlehem. I was amazed by how high it is! It's so ugly too - a great big concrete wall that totally contrasts with the pretty white buildings and olive trees around it.

Sunday 6 June 1030

We leave today! Can't believe how quickly it's gone. I've had the most fantastic time. I loved the region much more than I thought I would.

Everything you see of this area on the news paints it in a negative light. Of course there are dangerous elements and life is unpredictable, but those news reports don't give a full flavour of what it's like.

The weather, culture, history, food, architecture and people. Everything is fascinating and makes me want to come back.

I just feel so sorry for the children on both sides who live amongst all this beauty and history, but who are afraid every day.

Will things get better? Who knows? No matter how angry or upset the children were who we spoke to though, they all wanted peace. They just didn't know how to get it.