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From Dhaka to London's East End

'Banglatown' in London's East End came alive last weekend to the sights and sound of Bengali culture as thousands crammed its streets for the opening of the Bangladesh Festival.

Traffic came to a halt - literally - with roads closed to everyone but pedestrians and the odd rickshaw, as people took in a panoply of music, dance, food and demonstrations of traditional art.

Brick Lane restaurants spilled onto the streets, with many setting up tables and outdoor food stalls. For a couple of days, Londoners were magically transported to Dhaka.

It was a showcase of traditional Bengali culture, as well as a glimpse into the world of Britain's 300,000 strong Bangladeshi community. A fusion of folk and pop, of traditional art and contemporary style.

For young British-Bangladeshis, it was a moment of pride but also of wonder. For many, it was the first time they had seen live performances of Bangladeshi folk music and dance.

A Bengali diva

Deep inside Spitalfields Market, as Sunday shoppers ambled along the aisles, a Bangladeshi diva was letting it rip on a specially constructed stage. Kangalini Sufiya is one of Bangladesh's leading Baul singers. The Bauls are nomadic mystics, performing rhapsodic, spiritual music.

"Wicked! Really wicked," said 19-year old Arif Choudhury, eyes open wide as he listened to Bangladesh's Baul queen. "It's amazing because it keeps us in touch with our culture," explained Nurul Hannan, 20. "And many of us have never seen or heard this kind of music before. It exposes us to our own culture," he added.

Kangalini, who refuses to divulge her age but is believed to be close to 60, was performing with her band of musicians. The crowd's response was bordering on delirium.

Chants of "Bangladesh, Bangladesh" rent the air as she danced in front of them, microphone in one hand, cymbals in the other.

Security staff looked on in alarm as the crowd pressed close to the stage, almost engulfing it in the process. An enterprising solution was offered - and taken - as the backstage curtains were quickly rolled up to transform the stage into an open air ring, surrounded on all four sides - as it would be back home.

Kangalini was plainly delighted at this reception. "I am happy, very happy," she murmured, eyes shining. "It pleases them I know, but it pleases me even more to be here and to be appreciated like this.

"We need to come here more often," she added.

Multi-cultural appeal

Across Brick Lane, at the Allen Gardens, another stage had been set up. Bangladeshi schoolchildren from London's Tower Hamlets put up a musical commissioned by the National Lottery. The Dhabi's Story involved almost 500 children in its conception, design and production and was inspired by traditional Bengali storytelling.

The myriad genres of music and performance attracted many from London's artistic community. Songwriter Marcus Trunk is very familiar with Indian music, but it was the first time he had heard Bengali music.

"Seeing it live, as compared to listening to it at home, puts a completely different perspective on the experience," he said. "It's very inspiring."

There were some who had travelled from further afield. Ethno-musicologist Zoe Sheringham was in London for a conference on folk music. She took the opportunity to visit the Bangladesh festival and to take in a different style of music than the one she is used to.

"I am very familiar with folk music of the subcontinent - I play a south Indian percussion instrument - the mridangam," she said. "But this is the first time I have heard Bengali music. I can notice the similarities but it's also very intense."

Back in Brick Lane things were winding down, but the hordes were still on the street. From one set of doors, a deep rhythmic sound could be heard. It was the Banglatown Sounds Competition - a chance to check out the latest talent in London's trendy Asian music circuit. It was time to party.

Relevant Stories

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Internet Links

The Arts Worldwide Bangladesh Festival
Bangladesh Net
Asian Dub Foundation

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