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BBC News Online: World: Middle East


Monday, 18 March, 2002, 01:06 GMT

Picking up the pieces in Ramallah


Manara square, Ramallah
The centre of the town is coming back to life
By BBC News Online's Martin Asser in Ramallah

The people of Ramallah have got a spring in their step again - at least most of them have - and the heart of the town seems to be back to its ebullient, chaotic self once more.


" It was big this time, but it's not like at the beginning of the intifada "
Ramallah resident

After last week's invasion - the biggest by the Israeli army in almost 20 years - the new week has begun with traffic jams, not Israeli tanks, clogging the streets, and the sound of spring thunder, not explosions, rumbling through the valleys.

Ramallah's quick recovery rate seems to have surprised even some of the town's conflict-hardened inhabitants.

"I suppose we got used to it," says one resident, admiring the workmanship of repairs on the Red Rose florist in the centre of town, where a tank shell blasted a Palestinian militiaman in the height of last week's fighting.

"It was big this time, but it's not like at the beginning of the intifada when people scattered in panic at the first sight of Apache helicopters, thinking they're all going to be killed."

People are now speculating about future attacks by militants, which might knock the Israelis back on their heels again and reinforce the widely held view that the "Ramallah invasion" procured nothing for Israel except more hatred and a humiliating retreat.

Captive population

Not everywhere in the Palestinians' biggest West Bank conurbation do people feel quite so upbeat about the outcome of last week's onslaught.

The tanks may have gone, but the checkpoints that hold Ramallah in a stranglehold continue to mete out their daily dose of frustration and intimidation to ordinary people going about their business.

Rebuilding Red Rose florist in central Ramallah

And the mood is even darker down in the tiny Amari refugee camp, which was taken over by scores of Israeli soldiers and encircled by 15 of the more than 100 tanks that poured into Ramallah last week.

Most of the squashed cars have been removed, and steel bars prop up damaged buildings.

But bitter memories linger about the people killed in gunfights there, not to mention the apparently arbitrary detention of 170 of the camp's male inhabitants.

The men of Amari were taken bound and blindfolded to the Beitounia army camp, where they spent three cold nights under canvas, with little to eat or drink, before their release.

'Walking through walls'

Some families, one of them including three small children, were held captive in their own homes while the troops used them for cover as they occupied the narrow alleyways deep inside the camp.

Their houses had great holes punched in the sides, where the troops had employed the controversial "walking through walls" tactic to avoid being exposed to sniper fire in the alleyways.

A Palestinian car destroyed by Israeli tanks in Ramallah

One three-storey building - offering a commanding view over the squat hovels of the camp and therefore of great value to the occupiers - had been comprehensively trashed.

Framed Koranic scriptures had been taken down from the walls and smashed in the stairwell, so the broken glass would announce the presence of anyone coming up the stairs.

Family possessions had been thrown over the floor and broken, drawers emptied and cupboards overturned.

Neighbours said the owner of the house (who is in hospital with a heart condition) had worked in Saudi Arabia for 12 years to build this - by Amari standards - luxurious residence, only to have it ruined in three short days.

The camp's inhabitants say this was not an "anti-terrorist" operation as the Israeli army maintains, but an operation to terrorise them - and it has worked.


Related to this story:
Zinni praises Mid-East 'commitment' (16 Mar 02 | Middle East) Suicide attack hits Jerusalem cafe (10 Mar 02 | Middle East) Israel's history of bomb blasts (16 Feb 02 | Middle East)


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