Day three, and the lava is still flowing, eating its way through what is left of Goma, bulldozing much of the town into Lake Kivu.

The earth tremors have not stopped here. Some are almost strong enough to knock you off your feet.

Geologists say it could be a sign that the volcano is settling down, but it could just as well mean that more violent eruptions are on the way.

Hundreds of people have come back into Goma. They are risking their lives, not only to get to their houses close to the lava flow, but also, amazingly, to cross it.

It is safe enough to walk on, but still extremely hot and in some places still moving.

These people are carrying chickens, they are carrying goats, they are carrying their whole households on their heads, on their backs.

The flow of traffic goes both ways - some people heading home to see if their houses are intact and to rescue belongings, others bringing what they have managed to scavenge out the other way.

No food for two days

The displaced refugees spent Friday night in the open in the Rwandan city of Gisenyi, sleeping rough or in gardens.

The town turned into one giant dormitory. Several hundred refugees crammed into the forecourt of a petrol station.

Rows of children huddled together in blankets, one baby girl nursing a burned arm.

Many refugees are penniless and some have been complaining that they have not eaten for two days - the first humanitarian aid is only now being handed out and more supplies are on the way.

They say they are reluctant to move into refugee camps being set up by the Rwandan authorities fearing diseases like cholera.

A pretty desperate situation, and the Rwandan authorities who have borne the brunt of this exodus are now appealing for international help - all the help they can get.

Looting

In Goma itself, there have been several bursts of gunfire, presumably from soldiers trying to prevent looting.

Some people have returned to Goma, some simply to watch the spectacle, others hoping to salvage possessions.

This is a stunningly beautiful fertile region, but it is poor too and heavily overpopulated.

This natural catastrophe has followed on the heels of years of conflict involving several rebel armies and militias.