Conditions at the UK's largest prison have been criticised by the jails watchdog, but the BBC's Jane Hughes saw reasons to be optimistic at Wandsworth Prison when she visited the south London jail.
When we arrived earlier this week, the Muslim inmates were celebrating Eid, the end of the month of Ramadan, with a feast of curries and pastries that smelt mouth-watering.
Wandsworth Prison in south London has been criticised in a report
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It was not quite what I expected from a prison that was criticised two years ago for failing to meet standards of decency and activity and for alleged racism.
Anne Owers' latest report still finds fault with the jail, but she says it is getting better.
Things that have improved include prisoner activities and training, and the way new arrivals are handled.
We spent the day going all round the jail and seeing some of the activities now offered to prisoners.
At the brick workshop, 37 men were busy building and plastering walls - enthusiastic to be training as brickies and learning something new.
Practical qualifications
One, Cyril Derriviere, has earned two qualifications in bricklaying and plastering, and was optimistic that he would be able to find work when he is released.
He told me he had been in and out of prison for the last 30 years, but this was the first time he had had the chance to do any useful training.
As a result, he now feels he has the skills he needs to go straight. Not only that, but he has had a big boost to his confidence.
Inmates are offered practical courses to enhance their skills
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There was no shortage of confidence among the inmates involved in Radio Wanno.
It is Wandsworth's radio station and inmates there are working towards a B-tech qualification, equivalent to an A-level.
Kenroy, about to leave jail, said with a cheeky grin that he would like to do my job when he is released.
All the broadcasters I spoke to were full of praise for the opportunities they were getting.
Proud
The staff I met were also proud of their work.
Lynn Anderson, an officer on the new First Night wing, said they had not had a single suicide since it was opened.
Prison suicides are a constant worry for an institution like Wandsworth, and inmates are at their most vulnerable in the first 24 hours after they arrive in jail.
The new wing has been set up so that they can be eased into the regime and get advice from staff and experienced inmates, called "listeners", before they join the general population.
Diffusing tension
Lynn says some people are angry, others terrified or simply bewildered, and staff work hard to diffuse tension.
Once they move into their cell, a lot of prisoners have nothing to do all day - a problem highlighted by the inspection report.
What struck me about every training course I saw was that while the activities seem valuable, they are only available to a few of the almost 1,500 prisoners.
Suicides are a constant worry in institutions like Wandsworth
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Wandsworth is also full to bursting, with some prisoners sharing single-person cells, and trainers said that put extra pressure on their work.
Anne Owers' report also says many inmates complain that they are victimised by prison officers and some say they suffer physical abuse.
Personally, I saw no evidence of that - probably not surprising, as I was there at the invitation of the governor, who was keen to highlight positive aspects of the jail.
I did ask Ian Mulholland about suggestions of corruption among prison officers and he was robust in saying that he is very tough on it.
He said he would not employ anyone he felt might bring the prison into disrepute.
He is a relatively new governor; a young, energetic man, who seems determined to do more to bring down re-offending rates and prepare prisoners for life outside.
This report suggests he is some way towards achieving that, but has a long way to go.