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Tuesday, October 5, 1999 Published at 14:36 GMT 15:36 UK


UK

How can you shop with a conscience?

How do you know how an item has been made?

No-one wants to think that their sports shoes, exotic rugs or electronic goods represent the sweat and toil of underfed, underpaid and overworked Third World children hunched over machinery.

A survey conducted by Cafod and Mori in 1997 indicated that 92% of British shoppers wanted a minimum standard of working conditions to be enforced in developing countries.

But the origins of consumer items are too often revealed to be a dimly lit shacks where entire families toil long hours for pennies.

The official balls of the Rugby World Cup are the latest items alleged to be produced by Third World child labour.


[ image: The official World Cup Rugby balls are alleged to have been produced involving child labour]
The official World Cup Rugby balls are alleged to have been produced involving child labour
Reports said that even the UK company which produces the balls was unaware of any connection to sweat shops or child labour.

So what can you do?

So how can the average shopper be expected to trace the ethical origins of each component of every item they buy?

Only last year, similar allegations were being levelled against the producers of the World Cup footballs.

It is nigh-on impossible, admits the Ethical Consumer magazine, to be sure that every purchase has not involved the exploitation of another human being at some point in the production process.


[ image: Traidcraft supplies fairly traded footballs]
Traidcraft supplies fairly traded footballs
Or, for that matter, that an item is not produced by a company that invests in what some view as unethical enterprise, such as the arms trade.

Other consumers still may want to steer clear of items produced in a way which may damage the environment, or by a company which has connections to environmental damage.

Some pointers

But there are a few signposts through the ethical minefield of high street shopping.

If, for example, you want coffee from producers that look after their workers, you can pick up a jar carrying the Fair Trade label.

The Fair Trade Foundation - which has offices in 17 countries - helps small farmers and producers work together in order to remain price competitive.

On top of that, it works to ensure that a percentage of profits are spent on the welfare of workers and their families.

But the organisation only deals with items produced by small farmers, such as coffee, honey and chocolate, and cannot give its seal of approval to other commodities.

And although many companies are now agreeing to guarantee fair employment all the way down their chain of supply, there is currently no symbol to help shoppers make decisions about their purchases.


[ image: Cafe Direct is guaranteed to have been fairly traded]
Cafe Direct is guaranteed to have been fairly traded
But one of the founders of the Ethical Consumer magazine, Rod Harrison, says that shoppers have the power to effect change.

He said: "In many ways it can be a minefield, but there are ways in which one can register desire for fair conditions for workers in the supply. Every effort is a worthwhile effort, and makes a difference.

"We encourage discourse with the big companies. And we encourage our readers to carry out their own research by writing to companies and letting them know what they find acceptable, and the kind of things that they want to be able to buy."

For the time being, would-be ethical consumers have no easy task on their hands finding, for example, "clean clothes".

There are several organisations in operation all over the world, including Students Against Sweatshops in the USA and the Netherland's Clean Clothes, which aim to point consumers in the direction of ethically sound purchasing, and away from companies whose record they do not approve of.

But many manufacturers who have had sweat shop charges made against them say that the working conditions in their supply chain are often fair and above average in relation to the areas of the world in which they are provided.

In recognition of a need for a standard code of practice, the Ethical Trading Initiative - an alliance of big companies, non-governmental organisations and trades unions - was set up in the UK 18 months ago.

It aims ultimately to be able to indicate which companies adhere to its code.

Spokesman David Steele said: "There is a desire among consumers and campaigners for the ethical provenance of consumer goods to be clearly labelled."

The Internet is helping to spread information, he said, citing a campaign on university campuses in the USA to outlaw collegiate sweatshirts and caps made in sweatshops.


[ image: ETI wants to agree a code of employment all the way down the chain of supply]
ETI wants to agree a code of employment all the way down the chain of supply
He said: "The Internet and e-mail was very empowering for that group - they were able to disseminate information and lobby companies and politicians without spending a lot of money."

The Internet remains a useful tool for those who want to buy exploitation-free goods.

Rod Harrison added: "At the moment, people can look to buy from small producers who they know to be fair employers, and they can read our magazine to see how the bigger companies rate.

"It is very difficult to be sure that the entire chain of supply is clean - but every effort to buy ethically sound goods registers with manufacturers, who know that their markets are consumer driven."





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03 Oct 99 | UK
Storm over World Cup balls

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Internet Links


The Fair Trade Foundation

Traidcraft

Ethical Trading Initiative

Ethical Consumer Website


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