Gastropub food 'betters French'

Mr Ronay praised the 'warm-hearted' atmosphere of gastropubs

The quality of UK gastropubs disproves French leader Jacques Chirac's comments about "bad" British food, according to a new guide.

Gastropubs serve better food than many traditional bistros in France, with customers also receiving a "warmer" welcome, Egon Ronay's 2006 Guide says.

Mr Ronay says their emergence is the "biggest change" he has seen in his 50 years as a restaurateur and critic.

President Chirac reportedly said the UK had the worst food outside of Finland.

Anonymous inspections of more than 430 gastropubs - defined as pubs which serve food and keep draught beer - disproved that theory, Mr Ronay said.

The great importance and the greatest difference from French bistros... lies in the immediate friendliness and heartiness of the welcome Egon Ronay's 2006 Guide

The Star Inn in Harome, North Yorkshire, is named as gastropub of the year 2006 in the guide, published on Monday.

The guide names China Tang at The Dorchester in London as the best restaurant.

Gastropubs serve restaurant-standard food despite having overburdened cooks working in "cramped" kitchens, the guide states.

"The great importance and the greatest difference from French bistros - which strike you as soon as you cross the threshold - lies in the immediate friendliness and heartiness of the welcome, often by the family of the proprietor.

"Another attractive aspect is that the great majority of gastropubs take pride in local produce which they actively and laudably promote."

Explosive spread

But customers to gastropubs could face long waits because of the cramped kitchens, as well as prices which were often "dangerously" close to those of restaurants, the guide adds.

"Though around for some time they [gastropubs] are a phenomenon, having spread explosively with a surprisingly high standard of cooking and warm-hearted atmosphere - altogether the biggest change in the catering scene in my 50 years' experience as a restaurateur and critic," he added.

"And it shows how hasty and ill-informed President Chirac's condemnation earlier this year of the British food scene has been."

President Chirac made his comments in the run-up to the Olympic bid announcement which saw Britain and France vying to hold the 2012 Games.