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![]() Monday, February 23, 1998 Published at 10:39 GMT ![]() ![]() ![]() Special Report ![]() Pancake panache ![]() Sweet nothings from Holland
If you think 'you've seen one pancake, you've seen them all', it's time to think again.
There are over a hundred different varieties, both sweet and savoury, on the menu at My Old Dutch restaurant in London.
As British cuisine takes on more global influences, there is a quiet revolution taking place amongst UK restaurateurs as they strive for the perfect pancake.
Making a meal of the pancake is still catching on amongst the culinary shy British but it seems we're getting there. "We get busier and busier," says My Old Dutch franchise holder, Jamie Prudom.
Holland is just one country where pancakes, or Pannekoeken, are eaten as part of everyday life.
Cooked in large frying pan and tossed, the pancakes are open and thick and the size of a tricycle wheel. Fillings are mixed in with the batter, not spread on top. And once deftly manoeuvred onto a plate, the finished creation is lavishly garnished.
A savoury pancake can contain up to eight different ingredients, mixing meat, fish, vegetables and spices. And the sweet ones often extravagant, combining such heady additions as pear, ginger and coconut milk.
Without giving away trade secrets, Jamie says the way to a successful pancake is not to cook it too long and to keep a spatula underneath whilst in the pan.
And when it comes to the toss: "It's all in the wrists," he professes wisely.
The French touch
When is a pancake not a pancake? When it's a 'crepe'.
Apart from being French, the crepe differs from the pancake by virtue of its lighter and more crispy texture.
Crepes have become part of the fast food industry in France. Roadside vendors can often be seen selling them to hungry motorists.
Brittany would be a good place to start to educate yourself in these matters. The Bretons go that one step further, distinguishing between a 'galette' and a 'crepe'.
The crepe is made with white flour, cooked in a frying pan and served with a sweet accompaniment.
The galette on the other hand is made with buckwheat flour and cooked on a 'bilig', a raised , circular hot plate which is much like a griddle
The batter is spread very thin with a special spatula called a 'raclette'.
She explains: "The galette is dark brown in colour, thin and crispy. The buckwheat gives it a very distinctive flavour and the savoury accompaniment is cooked and served on the surface."
New diners are often surprised at what appears from the kitchen. "We have to explain that the buckwheat makes it a very different pancake from what they are used to.
On Tuesday, Chez Lindsay expects to be very busy. But, the restaurant's team are making time to offer the public the chance to learn their fine art for themselves with two cook-in courses. (Telephone: 0181-948 7473 for details.)
For those of you who can't make it, be brave and take on the recipe for the house special below.
Ingredients
Gallete batter: Filling
Method
Galette batter: gradually add the water to the flour and salt. Beat for 10 minutes. Leave to rest for at least one hour.
Filling: melt the 50g of butter and add the onions, salt and pepper.
Putting the galette together (one portion): using the ladle, pour 100ml of batter onto the billig or griddle. Form a 28cm circle with a spatula.
Serve with a green salad and glass of sparkling French cider.
Bon appetit!
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