If you think 'you've seen one pancake, you've seen them all', it's time to think again.

There are over a hundred different varieties, both sweet and savoury, on the menu at My Old Dutch restaurant in London.

As British cuisine takes on more global influences, there is a quiet revolution taking place amongst UK restaurateurs as they strive for the perfect pancake.

Making a meal of the pancake is still catching on amongst the culinary shy British but it seems we're getting there. "We get busier and busier," says My Old Dutch franchise holder, Jamie Prudom.

Going Dutch for Shrove Tuesday

"And on Tuesday [Feb 24] things will go mad. They'll be queuing up outside. It's all a bit strange to make such a fuss over a pancake but I'm not complaining."

Holland is just one country where pancakes, or Pannekoeken, are eaten as part of everyday life.

Cooked in large frying pan and tossed, the pancakes are open and thick and the size of a tricycle wheel. Fillings are mixed in with the batter, not spread on top. And once deftly manoeuvred onto a plate, the finished creation is lavishly garnished.

A savoury pancake can contain up to eight different ingredients, mixing meat, fish, vegetables and spices. And the sweet ones often extravagant, combining such heady additions as pear, ginger and coconut milk.

Without giving away trade secrets, Jamie says the way to a successful pancake is not to cook it too long and to keep a spatula underneath whilst in the pan.

And when it comes to the toss: "It's all in the wrists," he professes wisely.

The French touch

When is a pancake not a pancake? When it's a 'crepe'.

Apart from being French, the crepe differs from the pancake by virtue of its lighter and more crispy texture.

Crepes have become part of the fast food industry in France. Roadside vendors can often be seen selling them to hungry motorists.

A thin spread of batter, then reach for the 'raclette'

But, the tightly rolled, sugared finger food undermines the true culinary delight and depth of the French pancake.

Brittany would be a good place to start to educate yourself in these matters. The Bretons go that one step further, distinguishing between a 'galette' and a 'crepe'.

The crepe is made with white flour, cooked in a frying pan and served with a sweet accompaniment.

The galette on the other hand is made with buckwheat flour and cooked on a 'bilig', a raised , circular hot plate which is much like a griddle

The batter is spread very thin with a special spatula called a 'raclette'.

The galette sizzling on the bilig

Lindsay Wotton has taken on the onerous task of educating the Brits in this cuisine at her restaurant in Richmond, Surrey.

She explains: "The galette is dark brown in colour, thin and crispy. The buckwheat gives it a very distinctive flavour and the savoury accompaniment is cooked and served on the surface."

New diners are often surprised at what appears from the kitchen. "We have to explain that the buckwheat makes it a very different pancake from what they are used to.

Adding the ingredients to the top of the galette

"Also, that to serve the ingredients on top is how they do it in France. Our next step is to do what the French also do and cook the 'galettes' and 'crepes' in the restaurant in front of the customers," says Lindsay.

On Tuesday, Chez Lindsay expects to be very busy. But, the restaurant's team are making time to offer the public the chance to learn their fine art for themselves with two cook-in courses. (Telephone: 0181-948 7473 for details.)

For those of you who can't make it, be brave and take on the recipe for the house special below.

Le Supercomplete under construction

Le Supercomplete (makes 8 galettes)

Ingredients

Gallete batter:

Remove from the griddle and slide onto a plate.

Serve with a green salad and glass of sparkling French cider.

Bon appetit!
 

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