Wooing Indians with real ale

By Sanjoy Majumder
BBC News, Delhi

It is hoped British ales will become fashionable among wealthy Indians

For years, pub-goers in the UK have headed for a curry after downing several pints of their favourite beer.

Now, some of Britain's best known beer brewers are hoping to entice Indians who have traditionally shied away from warm beer.

If they are successful, it will be the first time that Indians will be able to sample real ale since the end of the British Raj.

At stake is India's rapidly growing beer-drinking market which is currently dominated by lagers.

So on an extremely pleasant winter evening, I joined several curious Indians at the vast and impressive grounds of the British High Commission in Delhi.

Under a white marquee, some of Britain's best known beer brewers had set up stalls serving their products along with traditional fare including platters or roast beef, ham and stilton cheese.

From Broughton Ales of Scotland, to Fullers of Chiswick, London, Greene King and Shepherds of Suffolk and Sharp's Brewery of Cornwall, they represented a vast geographical spread of some of Britain's finest real ale.

India Pale Ale

It is not the first time that India is experiencing British beer.

About 300 years ago, the iconic India Pale Ale was created with additional hops to withstand the five-month sea voyage to India and be served to British troops and civil servants stationed there.

Indian food, particularly south Indian food, goes extremely well with ale. I think it will do very well Andrew Whiffen, Executive Chef at Delhi's Oberoi hotel

But British beer went off the shelves 50 years ago - to be replaced by lager brought in by countries in Eastern Europe.

Most Indians are now used to drinking ice-cold lager during the summer when temperatures are known to reach 45C.

Would they really make the transition to drinking warm beer?

Michael Campbell Lamiton of the British Beer and Pub Association reassures me.

"It's a question of doing in Rome what the Romans do.

"If somebody wants to drink their beer cold, there's no reason why they cannot. Some may wish to drink it warm but we're perfectly willing to accept that many may wish their brew to be several degrees cooler."

'Swirl, sniff and sip'

At the St Peter's counter, Robin Witheridge was explaining the subtleties of Real Ale to what he hoped was a group of discerning Indians.

Beers from all around Britain were up for grabs

"What I have before me gentlemen," he boomed, "is a selection of three ales. India Pale Ale, Golden Ale and a Cream Stout."

We nodded wisely - a fair spread that.

"Now pick up your glasses and swirl."

Swirl? I was wondering if I'd stumbled upon a wine-tasting event.

"Sniff and then sip it ever so slowly till you feel it at the back of your throat," he went on.

We dutifully followed his instructions.

Fantastic, I thought.

"It's rather bitter," exclaimed my less impressed neighbour, a burly Sikh gentleman.

Upper crust

There was a method to the madness, I was to learn shortly.

"We are interested in reaching out to Indians with disposable income," says Janet Witheridge, Deputy Director Exports of the British Beer and Pub Association.

In short, the beer will be served in the more expensive bars and hotels rather than at a local pub.

Andrew Whiffen, Executive Chef at Delhi's high-end Oberoi hotel, is one of those who thinks it's a great idea.

"Indian food, particularly south Indian food, goes extremely well with ale. I think it will do very well."

But Harsharan Singh Manjral, whose family has been importing alcohol for four generations, is not so sure.

"It's a question of taste. A few people who've lived in England may be aware of ale but most others are not. A lot more needs to be done before it can hit the market."

Maybe. But on a crisp winter evening in Delhi, as I downed another pint of bitter, I was hoping it would be sooner rather than later.