The blessed route to Everest

The BBC is retracing the footsteps of the 1953 British Everest expedition as they made their way up to base camp in preparation for the first successful assault on the mountain's summit. BBC correspondent Jane Hughes is keeping a diary of her journey.

Day Five: Namche Bazar to Tyangboche

The route climbs above fast-flowing mountain rivers

It was a spectacle I never guessed I'd see. All our broadcasting gear making its way slowly out of Namche Bazar, carried by a train of 18 yaks. A satellite dish, TV editing gear, tripods, cameras, as well as our luggage and tents all piled on the backs of the lumbering beasts.

We followed slowly behind them as we began the steep trek up to our next destination, Tyangboche.

Our route took us along a mountainside that plunged steeply down into the valley below.

The scenery has visibly changed since we set out five days ago. The trees have thinned out and on the opposite side of the valley frozen rivers can be seen cascading from the snowline above.

As we travelled higher, we passed through a rhododendron forest in full bloom, the pink and red flowers startling against the increasingly stark landscape.

Jane Hughes: Enjoying dazzling views

Several hours later, gasping for breath in the thin air, we arrived at the home of the legendary Buddhist monastery.

Tyangboche is where the 1953 Everest expedition stopped to have their endeavour blessed by the head lama, or chief monk, of the monastery.

Almost every team planning an ascent has stopped here since then.

The sherpas' name for Everest is Chomolongma, which means "goddess mother of the Earth". They believe any trip that's not blessed will bring bad luck to the mountain.

John Hunt, the leader of the 53 expedition was entranced by the experience.

"My senses were intoxicated by the fantastic surroundings," he wrote.

"Tyangboche must be one of the most beautiful places in the world. The monastery provides a grandstand beyond comparison for the finest mountain scenery that I have seen."

In the years since the British expedition arrived, things have changed. They pitched camp on "an open grassy alp upon which yaks were grazing peacefully".

Now the monastery is flanked by several teashops and the grass has been reduced to fine dust by the number of visitors who camp there.

But once inside the monastery the magic is recaptured.

Tyangboche monastery still retains its magic

We arrived as the monks were beginning their afternoon prayers.

In their deep red robes they banged gongs, rang bells and chanted in unison.

The vividly painted interior was dimly lit by the afternoon light coming through the windows and by the candles burning at the feet of a vast golden Buddha. The atmosphere was mesmerising.

The 53 expedition set up their first base camp in Tyangboche. They, like us, had meals prepared for them by their sherpas. Treats included "a raisin cake, curry followed by rice pudding and tinned fruit out of the luxury box".

Menus don't seem to have changed much since then. But while they spent several days here testing their oxygen equipment and altitude rations, we plan to continue our journey tomorrow, ascending even closer to the snowline, to the town of Dingboche.