What do the Paramount Chiefs think of Graham Greene?
Humphrey Hawksley retraces the extra-ordinary journey undertaken on foot by Graham Greene from Sierra Leone across Liberia in 1935.
He feasts on sardines and luncheon meat, meets the lightening makers and devil dancers and is involved in a near fatal car crash.
How has West Africa changed? Is it better or worse than it was 70 years ago?
BBC Radio 4's Crossing Continents is broadcast on Thursday, 30 July, 2009 at 1102 BST and is repeated on Monday, 3 August, 2009 at 20:30 BST.
Reporter: Humphrey Hawksley
Producer: Mark Savage