As befits the capital of an oil Kingdom, in Riyadh the car reigns supreme - built with the proceeds of Saudi Arabia's vast oil wealth, it is a city of wide avenues bordered with elegant modern buildings and well-stocked shopping malls.
Saudi Arabia is facing challenges to its national identity
|
There are few pedestrians on the streets of Riyadh. It is extremely hot for much of the year, so life mostly takes place indoors, in an air-conditioned environment.
But it is not just the heat, which makes this an intensely private society.
As the birth place of Islam, Saudi Arabia is the most conservative country in the Middle East.
Saudis speak of their awareness of the country's privileged position, hosting Islam's two most holy places.
They say it means they, more than any other Muslim nation, need to try to live up to the standards prescribed by Islam.
Hence, the many social rules and strictures. The sexes are segregated, women are covered in black from head to foot, and Islamic penalties such as amputations and beheadings are carried out in public.
Identity crisis
But these days Saudi Arabia finds itself facing unprecedented challenges threatening the core of its identity.
The kingdom has been deeply shaken by the amount of negative attention it received in the United States after the 11 September attacks.
More than other countries, Saudi Arabia strives to live by the Islamic standards
|
Fifteen out of the 19 suicide hijackers that day were Saudi nationals - a fact which triggered an avalanche of vehemently hostile commentary from American commentators and congressmen.
The country's religious beliefs, its political system, schools, social traditions and customs were suddenly placed under a harsh spotlight and accused of breeding terrorists.
Saudis came to view Washington's war against terrorism as a war against Islam.
Like elsewhere on the Middle East, they resent America's unswerving support for Israel. In the last two years, the public mood has become increasingly anti-American.
And now the impending American-led attack against its northern neighbour, Iraq, presents another challenge.
Anti-war sentiment
There are many reasons why the Saudi Government does not want the war.
It fears that Iraq would fragment and a new Shia state would sprout in southern Iraq on the kingdom's doorstep.
It is also concerned about chaos engulfing its neighbour and spilling over its borders.
We will give America what it needs, but not necessarily what it wants
|
It does not trust that after the ousting of Saddam Hussein the US will be disposed to commit the huge amounts of time and effort needed to keep Iraq together and build in it a moderate and functioning system of government.
In addition, with so much anti-American feeling in the country, the Saudi authorities would also prefer not to allow the Americans to use its territory to strike a fellow Arab state.
They believe it could undermine their attempts to contain Islamic extremism and expand the pool of potential recruits to causes like that of al-Qaeda.
Saddam Hussein is no hero to the Saudis, but they sympathise with the people of Iraq and regard the US as a bully.
America still main ally
But the US is still Saudi Arabia's main strategic ally. Both sides believe it is in their mutual interest to safeguard the relationship, even if there is little grassroots support for it within the two countries.
It now appears a compromise has been worked out regarding America's use of military facilities in Saudi Arabia.
US officials say the kingdom is giving their military all the co-operation it needs. But they give no details.
Saudi Arabia says it is giving the US all the help it needs
|
Other sources, however, say the deal is that the US will wage its war as much as possible from aircraft carriers or the territories of Iraq's other neighbours.
But if there is something that only Saudi Arabia could provide, then the kingdom would oblige - but it will be done discreetly.
As one Saudi source put it: "We will give America what it needs, but not necessarily what it wants".