Turkish contradictions test Islam

Turkey is geographically, politically and officially part of both Europe and Asia

By Adil Ray
BBC, Explore

When I received a call from the Explore team at the BBC, asking me if I wanted to take part in a documentary focusing on Muslims in Turkey, I had to pause and think hard.

At the risk of sounding ungrateful, I get an awful lot of offers for Muslim-related television projects, which isn't always helpful if one is trying to carve out a broad and varied television career.

If I were to tell you that I'd had an offer (from one of the big channels who love catchy programme titles) to front a show called "The Fat Muslim with Two Heads who is also a Jew" would you believe me? Well don't. It wasn't offered, but I feel it coming.

If a modern majority Muslim country can't make Islam work in a democratic system what chance do we have here [in the UK]?

Within seconds of talking to the series producer of Explore I had made my decision - I realised immediately how important this was.

The battle that prevails in Turkey between those who are in favour of more traditional Islamic thought and the secularists is relevant to us all.

After all, if a modern majority Muslim country can't make Islam work in a democratic system what chance do we have here?

Without wishing to give the far right in Britain any campaign ideas, I am sure the thought of any number of the 70 million Muslims being able to travel freely to the UK would affect us all and probably scare one or two of us too.

Informed about Islam

My mother thinks Turkey becoming part of the European Union is a great idea.

What struck me about the pork-eating and beer-drinking Turkish Muslims was how informed they were about their religion

Her theory is that the more Muslims there are in Britain the greater the chance of her son marrying a nice Muslim girl. Pah! Pigs might fly!

As we all know, pigs can't actually fly unless accompanied by an adult. But if they were to hover over the Istanbul skyline many Muslim Turks wouldn't mind.

You see, what I discovered in Turkey was probably the single most shocking piece of information regarding practising Muslims I have ever encountered.

No, not that the longer the beard the more religious you are, although some TV journalists would have us think so.

It's that in some parts of Turkey it is deemed perfectly acceptable for a Muslim to eat pork!

The guys I met take so much pleasure from it, in fact, that they actually go and hunt for it themselves - presumably to make sure it's real pork and not some kind of "tofu" variation supplied by the Islamic authorities.

I never thought I would see this day.

While a student, I was under the impression that even if a speck of my housemate's bacon fat was to get anywhere near my fish finger, I would be immediately struck down by lightning, but not before I had received 40 lashes in public from the local mullah and was disowned by the entire family.

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Adil Ray joins a wild boar hunt in a Turkish forest

What struck me about the pork-eating and beer-drinking Turkish Muslims was how informed they were about their religion.

The people I spoke to had read the Koran and had made their choices.

This wasn't a case of someone feeling it had to be one choice or the other and that his or her life, beliefs and freedom were being compromised.

Until, that is, the authorities try to make it hard for them to hunt and sell pig meat or try to close down their local bars.

Hairpiece

Any good TV documentary needs a light moment and this was provided by Mercan, an Ankara university student.

Judges recently blocked a move to allow headscarves at universities

Her issue is very important, but the way it is being tackled by girls like her may make you laugh. As Mercan herself says, it is absurd.

At the moment headscarves or the hijab are banned in all public and government buildings, including universities, thanks to a directive passed by a former government.

So what does Mercan do? Show off her locks? No, that would go against her strong belief.

Try a university elsewhere? She can't afford to.

Instead, on top of her hijab which covers her own natural hair, she wears a hairpiece.

Her wig may not fit perfectly, but her absurd response, on the other hand, appears to.

As with many places in the world, what ministers discuss isn't always reflective of the moods on the streets, and in cafes and living rooms

I am constantly thinking of new comedy material for my radio show and needless to say I was inspired.

Here we have an intelligent, ambitious young woman that Turkey will depend upon, who is denied her rights in a majority Muslim democratic country.

It's hard to imagine her in any way representing extremists in the manner the authorities fear she does. That is, after all, what they are saying.

Even though she is not a terrorist, they somehow think her piece of cloth is a weapon and is therefore dangerous.

All-important gateway

Despite the confusion that exists in Turkey I believe there is a tremendous amount to learn.

The forces of modernisation and traditionalism meet head on in Turkey

As with many places in the world, what ministers discuss isn't always reflective of the moods on the streets, and in cafes and living rooms.

Undoubtedly, as Turkey sits on the cusp of Europe and Asia it holds the key to providing that all-important gateway between East and West.

I hope they take on that responsibility.

I can think of no better scene from Turkey than sitting in a beautiful bar or restaurant overlooking the Bosphorus and hearing the call to prayer coming from one of the many nearby mosques.

Maybe we should all drink to that.

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Adil Ray presents the Adil Ray Show on the BBC Asian Network.

Explore, a travel-based journalism series, provides an insight into exotic parts of the world, revealing stories about the environment, globalisation, and politics. Istanbul and Anatolia is on BBC Two at 21:00 GMT, on Sunday, 8 February.