Moscow Diary: Changing climate

Apart from dismaying fans of winter sports, climate change could alter the whole of Russia's traditional way of life, the BBC's James Rodgers reports. His diary is published fortnightly.

A CHANGE OF OUTLOOK?

"Go out into the street and see!"

Russia's Deputy Economics Minister, Andrei Belousov, was talking to reporters ahead of the St Petersburg International Economic Forum, which begins later this week.

Could Russia's famously fierce winters become a thing of the past?

I had asked why climate change was one of the items topping the agenda - Russia isn't a country where the issue gets much attention in public debate.

Two consecutive warm winters have dismayed Muscovites. Conditions for skiing and skating can no longer be counted on as once they could.

But, on the other hand, Moscow's pavement coffee shops and bars have been opening earlier in the year.

Away from the cafe society of the capital, climate change could alter the whole of Russia's traditional way of life.

If its famously fierce winters do become milder on a permanent basis, there are implications for agriculture, and for oil and gas extraction.

Lord Nicholas Stern, a British economist who presented a report to the UK government in 2006 on the economics of climate change, will be among the speakers at the forum.

"In higher latitude regions, such as Canada, Russia and Scandinavia, climate change may lead to net benefits for temperature increases of 2 or 3C, through higher agricultural yields, lower winter mortality, lower heating requirements, and a possible boost to tourism," the Stern review concluded.

There was a warning, too.

"But these regions will also experience the most rapid rates of warming - damaging infrastructure, human health, local livelihoods and biodiversity," the report added.

Perhaps because of the massive social and political changes which have rocked Russia over the last two decades, many people here seem content to live for today.

Who can blame them? If your country has gone from a superpower to an economic wreck and then an energy giant in the space of 20 years, it's pretty hard to be confident that the break-neck drive through history is over.

The St Petersburg forum's interest in climate change shows that Russia has changed too - into a country thinking about the longer term.

NO SMALL CHANGE

I couldn't tell how much cash there was.

From the way it hit the pavement, so close to my foot that I almost stepped on it, it sounded like quite a lot.

Foreign tourists are frequently targeted by conmen in the Russian capital

It was a fat wad of US dollars wrapped in a see-though plastic bag.

I walked on briskly.

Someone over my shoulder shouted: "Young man!" (one of the common forms of address in a country where Communism swept away less direct ones), but I couldn't tell if that was directed at me or at the person in front.

It was he who had rather theatrically dropped the cash as he hurried past.

I didn't stick around to see what happened. I was partly amused, partly annoyed.

Let me explain. I think I avoided becoming involved in one of the more common scams perpetrated on visitors to the Russian capital.

This is the idea. The first crook drops the money. The unsuspecting tourist picks it up and tries to get his attention, thinking he has let it fall by accident. The conman heads off so quickly that the would-be good citizen can't catch up.

Then crook number two appears. He suggests you split the money. While the bewildered newcomer decides what to do, crook number one reappears, counts the cash, and announces that some is missing.

In the deluxe version of the scam, someone in police uniform even turns up to take the conman's side in the dispute. The hapless victim is forced to "repay" the missing money from his or her own wallet.

I was amused because it was the first time I had actually seen somebody try the trick.

I was disappointed because after years of living and working in the Moscow, I apparently look as savvy as if I've just stepped onto the streets of the Russian capital for the first time - and as if I might, perhaps, believe they were paved with gold.

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Your comments:

Hi James: I really enjoy your diary. I don't always agree with it! I have been living here for many years. The money scam was tried on me twice in close succession on Tverskaya Street. Like you, I had heard about it and thought that I blended in well enough not to have it tried on me. I ignored it the first time and laughed. The second time I went the whole hog to see how far they would go. Fortunately I was near a restaurant where I am well known and managed to slip in there when the going got rough. The restaurant security chased them off. I think they were watching the bank I came out of. They probably play the numbers game, so to speak. They are good though, if not just evil. I am glad to see that I am not alone! Keep up the good work. Steve
Steve Rabbette, Moscow, Russia

I am surprised this scam is still happening. I was walking with a Russian friend on Red Square when someone tried this in 2004...Other scams (apply more to expats living in Moscow and other big cities) include a taxi driver offering you a drink (which is spiked). You fall asleep and are then driven to the outer suburbs and dumped after being robbed of your mobile phone, wallet and your valuables. (Also happens if you sleep on the metro in the early hours - either gangs of gypsies, corrupt police officials and pickpockets will rob sleeping and comatosed clubbers...) For those people engaging in 'ladies of the night' the girl may offer to drink some champagne together under the pretence of 'Russian tradition.' She pours some wine while you go to the bathroom and guess - a spiked drink! You fall asleep, she calls other gang members who will ransack the flat of all valuables (I think we're seeing an emerging pattern here...)leaving it completely empty... Unfortunately, there's no hard and fast rule -think about the bar you're visiting and the reputation - check with your local embassy or ask people about that bar's reputation. If coming out of a club, try to drink some tea/coffee before leaving and if taking a taxi, get a bottle of coke to drink on the way home... However, all you can do is be sensible, watch yourself and act responsibly...
Mark Dixey, Moscow, Russia

James, my fiancee and I experienced the 'cash drop' trick in Sochi in 2001 before we were married in St.Petersburg. The criminals are easily thwarted. Either give the money to the second bandit (if he'll take it) or just drop it on the ground and walk away. With this scam it takes two to tango!
Patrick Mitchell, Edmonton, Canada

I was walking in Red Square a few years ago with a fellow Australian mate, and I almost fell into the same trick. There was a 500 rouble note in the floor and I was about to pick it up, when friend told me not to. I think foreign people are targets all the time, but once you start understanding how Moscow works, well, one learns to avoid those situations, even if one looks like an outsider.
Alejandro, Mexico City

Yes. It is old trick. Muscovites have been caught too, but it was five or six years ago. It's strange you being caught out like this. Try not to touch unknown money (items, bags) next time. If you really want to help - call the militia (our police). And if you ARE in the bad situation call 112 in a mobile phone (it's militia too). Most of criminals can run very fast, you'll see. :)
Ivan Zorin, Moscow, Russia