Germany's new tastes

Livestock markets are closed because of disease fears

By Peter Morgan in Berlin

The Germans have always been known for their love of wurst and wienerschnitzel.

But since the outbreak of BSE there last November and the worries over foot-and-mouth disease, many Germans are rethinking what they put on their plates.

Despite safety measures, Germans are turning away from beef

In at least one Berlin restaurant, horsemeat has become a specialty.

This year, 70,000 horses will be butchered for the German market - twice as many as a year ago.

The speed with which purchasing patterns have changed is dazzling. Vitalia Healthfood Stores in Berlin is selling 30% more of everything since the health scare broke. Some lines of vegetarian pates, and meat substitutes are entirely sold out.

I won't eat beef for a long time, for maybe 10 or 15 years

German man

"There are lots of people asking us what things taste like," said Angelina Krueger. "They are trying out vegetarian foods and asking how they can change to a healthier diet."

The number of Germans describing themselves as vegetarian has doubled in three months. Countless others will now buy only organic meat.

"I won't eat beef for a long time, for maybe 10 or 15 years," said one man. "Until then I think I will eat only chicken, turkey or vegetables."

Changing markets

The seismic change in German eating habits has spawned stories of success for some organic food businesses. But there are other cases of markets collapsing and of business failures.

Farmers are angry with the government's handling of BSE

One factory in Berlin has been processing meat for decades. But now its being closed down, and everyone there will be out of a job.

Traditionally some beef products have been in making sausages. When the BSE crisis broke, all beef was excluded from the process, but sales have still been badly hit.

"Naturally we are all very shocked about the factory closing," said Fritz Stellbrinck of Karl Koenege Meats. "The press is largely to blame, because no-one knows what food they can trust and what they should avoid."

The question upon which thousands of livelihoods now crucially depends, is whether the German taste for meat, most especially beef, will return once the BSE panic dies down, or whether consumer confidence in Europe's intensive farming methods has been permanently undermined.