Walking the fashion tightrope

Walking the fashion tightrope

by Peter Bowes in Hollywood

Björk was the centre of attention at the 2001 Oscars

Patty Fox, fashion adviser to the stars on Oscar night, reveals the sensitivities of her job to BBC News Online as our awards countdown continues.

"It's the greatest and biggest fashion show in the world," says Patty Fox, fashion co-ordinator for the 75th Academy Awards.

The Oscars show is the dream venue for every top-flight clothing designer.

Movie stars are renowned as much as for their work on the big screen as their status as fashion icons and the Academy Awards ceremony has become the most prestigious catwalk in the business.

"I like to think of the red carpet as being all about fashion and once you're inside the theatre it's all about film," says Ms Fox.

She is a fashion designer who has been advising Hollywood stars on their Oscars night outfits for the past decade.

I applaud someone and their creativity and if it's consistent with their own personal style then it does have integrity

Patty Fox on Björk's outfit

"I'm a creative conduit between any presenters and nominees, that so desire my services, and fashion designers and jewellery designers," she says.

As the prospect of war looms, the traditional glitz and glamour of Oscar night is expected to be tempered to reflect this year's mood.

Ceremony organisers have announced plans to tone down the red carpet arrivals stage - preventing stars posing for pictures or talking about their dresses.

Nevertheless, fashion pundits still predict a night of sartorial splendour - albeit more sombre, with plenty of understated black.

In previous years, Hollywood's biggest night has had its share of triumphs and disasters in the fashion department.

Ripping to threads the garment choices of the world's most glamorous women has become a popular Tinseltown sport.

Joan Rivers has made a career out of it on US TV.

The Oscars ceremony is the entertainment world's most formal awards show and it has long been the aim of Ms Fox to "return glamour to Hollywood".

She adds that actresses make perfect fashion leaders.

Ms Fox advises on what and what not to wear on the big night

"They are not supermodels, they are real people, they have real concerns.

"Greta Garbo was credited with bringing the turtle neck into fashion - but in actuality she had a very thick neck. We are still looking to Audrey Hepburn as a style icon."

"There was a time when it was, 'do your own thing' - rebel, and the red carpet certainly was not the most glamorous catwalk in the world, which it has become now,' she says.

Tradition

"The most successful red carpet outfit is one that truly epitomises the star's personal style," explains Ms Fox.

"So that they look like it is truly a garment that they have selected and it would hang in their regular closet - not that they're just a runway model wearing a designer garment on a catwalk."

Russell Crowe's mandarin collar made an impression

While the Academy encourages the nominees and presenters to dress in a style in keeping with Oscars tradition, Ms Fox says she also respects those celebrities who go out on a limb.

Two years ago, Björk introduced the tutu look to the Oscars.

The Icelandic singer's swan get-up succeeded in ruffling a few feathers.

"That definitely was a costume. I applaud someone and their creativity and if it's consistent with their own personal style then it does have integrity and that was for her," says Ms Fox.

"That is her personal style - so that worked."

However, the ballet dancer outfit worn by Lara Flynn Boyle at this year's Golden Globes may be considered over-the-top for the Oscars.

The laced-up high heels and pink ribbon ponytail turned many heads.

"She achieved what she wanted - and that was, she wanted to feel like a prima ballerina.

Halle Berry's dress impressed fashion watchers in 2002

"She pulled the dress off quite nicely - she's a beautiful woman but the tell tale sign was the accessory of the lace up leggings. That made it into a costume in my estimation," says Ms Fox.

"It's almost like if she hadn't done that little punctuation mark she could have gotten away with it."

Halle Berry, last year's best actress winner, is always immaculately groomed.

"She'll usually go for an icy pastel colour which immediately attracts the attention of the camera, the camera loves colour, and so do we, and it looks good on her.

"Or she will go for a bronzy tone that makes her look monochrome but with texture. Look at her neck lines - they're all very well thought out, " says Ms Fox.

Pull it off

Jennifer Lopez has attracted attention for her body baring outfits.

Jennifer Lopez could get away with just about anything

"She's not afraid to live on the fashion edge. And besides being such a beautiful woman she can usually pull it off quite nicely."

Male Hollywood stars also have to be careful what they wear.

"Men's fashion is all about the details," explains Ms Fox.

"One year more of the trends came from men's wear than from women's wear. There was an era where the whole tuxedo silhouette was changed when the frock coat came in and several men chose to wear that Edwardian longer jacket."

Mel Gibson has been singled out as one of the male trend-setters.

"He researched his family tartan and had a vest made out of the tartan."

"Sometimes a man will wear a lapel pin or diamond studs. The black on black look, the colourless shirt look for men - those were all radical fashion moves."