The message students have painted on the road is spelled out in letters two metres high - bold enough to reach all the way to Jakarta. They want a referendum which would allow their province of Aceh, on the northern tip of Sumatra, to choose its own future, inside or outside the republic of Indonesia.

Students spell it out

A year after the fall of President Suharto, and in the run-up to national elections, anti-Jakarta sentiment is on the rise.

A decades-old separatist struggle, deeply stained in blood, has taken on the guise of peaceful, sixties-style agit-prop, but the popular anger that fuels the campaign is as intense as ever - and protests are gaining strength.

"We can't stand being part of Indonesia," says one man, "so many people have died here over the years. We demand our independence."

Potential for violence continues

Simon Ingram: "The authorities in Jakarta have every reason for alarm"

In mid-April, truckloads of school students descended on the town of Lhokseumawe, brandishing the illegal flag of an independent state of Aceh.

A contingent of riot police and soldiers were ready for them. When the students refused to disperse, the police opened fire. At least thirty protesters were injured, and one 17-year-old youth died from a bullet to the chest.

Ahmiedi Bin Mohamed Natsir was shot dead by police

The parents of the dead boy, Ahmiedi Bin Mohamed Natsir, nurse their grief and anger at home in a village outside Lhokseumawe:

"Deep in my heart I know that our struggle must go on, says Ahmedi's mother, "but it is still so hard in accept that my son had to be a victim."

Increased confidence

Aceh's staunchly Islamic character has long been a driving force within the campaign for an independent state. So has a tradition of militancy that kept the colonising Dutch forces at bay for years.

But in the post-Suharto era, the Free Aceh Movement has become bolder.

The guerrilla struggle goes on but separatist leaders like Ismail Shaputra are now able to publicise their demands with a new-found confidence: "We will fight for independence - just one word. Not for autonomy, not for federations, just one word - independence - free from Indonesia."

To many, the Indonesian army is the enemy

To many Achinese, the Indonesian army is the enemy, with its role in the brutal suppression of the 1980s far from forgotten. While the military has apologised for its past misdeeds, its role of safeguarding the authority of Jakarta is unchanged.

Johnny Wahab, a spokesman for the Indonesian Armed Forces is confident that rebellion will fail:

"A separatist rebellion here cannot succeed - the rebel movement is simply not strong enough. If they really want their own state in Aceh they should abide by the law, and do it through their representatives in parliament."

Patience running out

But that sort of patience was exhausted long ago. The torched government buildings on the main road out of Lhokseumawe testify to that.

Aceh's fertile and mineral-rich province has been under-developed

The under-development of such a fertile and mineral-rich province is another source of deep antagonism towards Jakarta.

The campaign under way is about more than just self-rule. Aceh is home to a natural gas plant which is one of Indonesia's biggest earners of hard currency. It is an economic asset that the government in Jakarta could scarcely afford to let go.

The crowds at the regular pro-independence rallies have little faith in President Habibie's promises of a bigger share in their province's wealth, or of justice for past crimes committed by the armed forces.