He began working at Vogue in 1943 in the art department.
Showing a talent for unorthodox layout, he was asked to photograph a Vogue cover shot - the result was a still life of a brown leather bag, a beige scarf, gloves, oranges and lemons arranged in a pyramid shape.
His austere style of photographing models and fashion accessories against clean backdrops was in contrast to the prevailing style of using busy settings and props.
Portraiture from the 1950s showed not only famous actors, musicians and politicians but also plumbers, salesmen and cleaners in New York City, Paris and London.
"The severe portrait that is not the greatest joy in the world to the subject may be enormously interesting to the reader," he said in a 1991 interview in The New York Times.
An exhibition of Penn's work is due to be staged at London's National Portrait Gallery from February next year.
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