Rural Madagascans hide from eclipse

Special glasses were available but the few who needed them

By Alastair Leithead in Madagascar

Millions of people across Africa have witnessed the first total eclipse of the new Millennium.

But I chose to watch it in a village in the dry forest close to the west coast of Madagascar.

More than 5,000 people live there, but only 12 villagers ignored the warning to stay indoors and watched it with me.

All the others locked themselves in their homes when a very out-of-place air horn sounded at 1515 local time, and they did not emerge until sunset after 1800.

Quiet streets

Traditional ideas dominate the culture of rural Madagascar and ombias or witchdoctors have an important role to play.

The total eclipse was met by an eerie silence in rural Madgascar

Their advice was to avoid the spectacle, something they say has great power and must be respected, as it can affect people's destiny for good or bad.

The streets, previously packed with small children welcoming visitors, fell eerily quiet as the first part of the moon edged in front of the sun.

Despite information and special eclipse viewers provided by the government, the majority closed their doors and windows on their red mud houses, no doubt aware of the excitement outside.

Fifty miles down the coast, thousands of tourists from all over the world gathered to enjoy perfect conditions for the whole two hours between first contact and sunset.

But in this part of the world at least, the precise science of eclipse-watching was overwhelmed by the strong traditional beliefs of rural Madagascar.