Cold water poured on whisky claim

The taste of wine has little to do with the area of the vineyards

The rule that champagne can only be made in the area which gave it its name has been investigated by a mid Wales academic.

Professor Alex Maltman's wide-ranging study includes a look at whether there is a French conspiracy to prevent established Gallic products being copied.

The geologist at the University of Wales, Aberystwyth has also examined how water in different parts of the world affects locally-produced wine, beer and whisky.

His results have shown that, despite advertisers' claims, the taste of wine and whisky bears little connection to the minerals in the water used to make them.

While crystal waters tumbling from granite mountains make good advertising copy, they are of little significance to the taste of whisky Alex Maltman, scientist

But where beer is made depends on the type of water in that area which dictates whether the drink will be ale, lager or stout.

In Geology Today, Prof Maltman exposes what he says is the lack of data to back advertisers' boasts that wines are earthy, minerally or even flinty.

Butter and blackcurrants

"At one extreme of opinion, not only does geology underpin the success of vineyards but the very taste echoes the bedrock," he explains.

"France is the heartland of a supposed relationship between an area's wines and local factors such as its geology, and European law is increasingly enshrining the idea.

"So it is claimed that champagne can only be made in the Champagne area of France because the particular mix of physical conditions there cannot be replicated anywhere else.

"Indeded the European Union is busy extending the principle to a host of other agricultural products such as cheese, butter and blackcurrants.

Prof Maltman's research deals with wine, beer and whisky

"But opponents of the concept suspect a Gallic conspiracy designed to thwart atempts to copy established French products elsewhere."

Prof Maltman claims that geology influences only the performance of the vines, and has an indirect effect on character, if not the flavour.

Beer-making , however, is directly affected by geology because ale predominantly consists of water, says Prof Maltman.

The geology of the water directly affects the chemistry of the brewing water, which influences the taste of the finished beer.

Prof Maltman cites Burton-on-Trent as an area that is perfect for brewing beer because of its acidity.

But the acidic water of water in Dublin is the reason behind the roasting of malt to reduce the acidity which gives us the famous black stouts.

Prof Maltman also criticises whisky advertisers who claim that water is all important to the taste of that drink.

"While crystal waters tumbling from granite mountains make good advertising copy, they are of little significance to the taste of whisky.

"Factors such as the cereals used an the peat smoke used during the malting process are more imoportnat than geology and water."